The Grenadines

Grenada

It was time for our first crew switch. My delivery team headed back to Canada, and Sue—along with our friends Scott and Carla arrived to join the adventure. We spent our first day in Grenada on a taxi tour, visiting Fort Frederick, a nutmeg facility, the rainforest, and finishing at a beautiful waterfall.

Fun fact: Grenada is known as The Spice Island because it was once the world’s largest exporter of nutmeg. They also grow chocolate, cinnamon, turmeric, and many other spices. The highlight of our day was hands-on interaction with wild monkeys, who happily sat in our arms and munched on bananas.

Carriacou

We sailed six hours to Carriacou and anchored near the stunning Sandy Island. The day was spent exploring the beach and snorkeling at the local underwater sculpture garden. The highlight, though, was sip-and-paint followed by dinner at Paradise Beach Club. Sue painted a “Rumaway” sign that will forever hang on the wall there.

Union Island

The next morning, we headed to Union Island, part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Union Island (along with Carriacou) took a direct hit from Category 5 Hurricane Beryl about 18 months ago and the island is still struggling to recover.

It was heartbreaking to see people living in homes with tarp roofs, no windows, and in some cases, tents. While progress has been made, there is still a long road ahead. Tourism is slowly returning and is their main source of income, so I’m glad we were able to stop and support the community.

We did an incredible hike up to an old fort with sweeping views over the entire bay, followed by dinner at Thompson’s Island Bar and Grill. The hurricane destroyed most of his restaurant, but he has pieced together enough to create a rustic, resilient space that tells its own story.

Mayreau & Canouan

Mayreau is a small island with a population of about 400. It boasts a beautiful beach area lined with several bars and restaurants along the water. We tried to order food, but a large ship had visited earlier in the day and bought up most of the supplies. The island was waiting on the ferry to arrive to restock. Instead, we spent the afternoon on the beach, swimming in crystal-clear water and soaking in the laid-back island vibe. Canouan is another small island with some nice boutique hotels. It has a mega yacht marina that recently had the Below Deck crew here to film the upcoming season.

Tobago Cays

The Tobago Cays are a collection of uninhabited islands that form a protected marine park. The area includes a turtle sanctuary and both the land and surrounding waters are protected. Unfortunately, it was very windy, so we couldn’t explore the nearby reefs or visit the island where a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed.

We did, however, see turtles and rays in the more sheltered bays. The highlight was the beach BBQ. Every day, locals from Union Island arrive to set up a dinner for visiting boaters—complete with steel drums, a bar, and local dishes like fish, lobster, and chicken. It was an unforgettable experience, made even more memorable by a sudden downpour that completely soaked us as we made our way back to the boat.

Mustique

Mustique is an ultra-exclusive private island owned by the Mustique Company, which is run by the island’s 150 homeowners. The company employs over 100 local villagers who operate everything from the grocery store, bakery, bars, taxi service, clinic, and even the church. In return, the company provides free housing to villagers while they are employed on the island.

Every home on Mustique has a butler, cook, and multiple maids—and these are not your typical houses. We cruised past homes owned by Mick Jagger, Bryan Adams, Justin Bieber, and Tommy Hilfiger. The royal family previously owned property here as well, and the local rumor is that LeBron James has been looking at the $200 million house perched on the top of the hill.

We have never visited a place like this. Everything was immaculate, with stunning gardens, perfectly maintained walkways, and an overall sense of quiet exclusivity. Boaters are only allowed to visit limited areas of the island and access can be completely restricted depending on who is on the island at the time. We were fortunate to be there on a day when we were allowed to take an island taxi tour.

Bequia

We are currently in Bequia as I write this update. The island often has more than 100 boats in its harbor and is a major yachting hub for the region. It’s a vibrant, lively place with fruit stands, bars, restaurants, and marine stores scattered throughout town.

We’ll be here for about a week before heading to St. Vincent. We took an island taxi tour that included stops at an old fort, a fishing village, a destroyed turtle sanctuary, and the whaling area. Yes—whaling. Bequia is one of the few places in the world still permitted to hunt humpback whales. The hunt must be carried out using traditional methods. Islanders spot whales from high vantage points, while hunters set out in wooden sailboats. The whale is hand-harpooned and tows the boat as it dies. Before it sinks, the bravest man jumps onto the whale and hand sews its mouth shut to keep it afloat. The whale is then brought back to a designated island where the entire community gathers to celebrate and process it. Last year they caught one whale; none were caught in the previous two years. The tradition is highly controversial, but the locals view it as a deeply rooted part of their cultural heritage.

We ended the tour in true island fashion—with our driver getting a flat tire and us hitching a ride back to town with the local customs officer. It was a memorable experience, to say the least.

Scott and Carla left yesterday, so Sue and I are on our own for the next week until Andrew arrives. We leave Bequia on Sunday, heading to St. Vincent for a few days before taking on a 50-mile crossing to St. Lucia.