Martinique and Dominica - Nature Island

Sue and I finish up in Martinique and make our way to one of our favorite stops Dominica

David Harris

2/17/20263 min read

Martinique - Fort De France

We said goodbye to Andrew and spent a full day exploring Fort-de-France, the vibrant capital of Martinique. Founded in the 1700s, the city still reflects its deep French roots—especially with the imposing Fort Saint-Louis guarding the harbor.

The city is a unique blend of French sophistication and laid-back Caribbean charm. We wandered through the bustling local produce market, explored the beautiful Saint-Louis Cathedral, and admired the stunning Schoelcher Library—a remarkable structure originally built in France, then dismantled and shipped piece by piece across the Atlantic.

Of course, we couldn’t resist stopping at a very Pepsi-branded café to enjoy a Pepsi and coffee before moving on to our final stop in Martinique.

Martinique - St Pierre

Saint-Pierre sits on the northeast shore of Martinique and carries a powerful history. In 1902, Mount Pelée erupted in a catastrophic pyroclastic explosion. Superheated ash and gas—over 2000°F—raced down the slopes at more than 100 mph. In less than two minutes, the town was destroyed, over 28,000 lives were lost, and 12 ships in the harbor sank.

Remarkably, one prisoner survived in his jail cell. Today, while the town has rebuilt, remnants of the original structures remain, serving as reminders of that day. The local museum displays artifacts recovered from the disaster, preserving the memory of what was once known as the “Paris of the Caribbean.”

Dominica – Nature Island - Roseau

Not many people know much about Dominica, but it has easily been one of the highlights of our trip.

Our first stop was Roseau, where we grabbed a mooring and connected with SeaCat, a local guide specializing in tours for the yachting community. He was full of life, pride, and infectious energy. We began with a two-hour hike to Middleham Falls. It was steep and ended with a boulder scramble (not exactly Sue’s favorite), but the reward was a stunning waterfall and a refreshing swim in the cool pool below. Next came Titou Gorge—a narrow, 300-foot gorge where you put on a life jacket and swim carefully upstream between towering rock walls to reach another waterfall spilling from the cliffs above.

By this point, Sue was ready for happy hour—but SeaCat had one more adventure planned. At Trafalgar Falls, most visitors stop at the overlook. Not us. We ducked under the fence and scrambled up the boulder field along the river for 30 minutes to reach the base. I don’t think Sue would have agreed to go but SeaCat didn’t really give us a chance to think so off we went scrambling over huge boulders and a traipsing through slippery river rocks.

At the end, side by side, were two waterfalls—one fed by cool mountain water, the other by a hot spring. We had a natural hot shower on one side and a refreshing cold plunge on the other. SeaCat added unforgettable touches throughout the day: drinking from a mountain creek using a leaf as a cup, tasting freshly picked forest fruits, and enjoying raw cacao mixed with sugar straight from the tree. It was truly one of the most memorable days of the whole trip.

Dominica – Portsmouth

Our final stop in Dominica was Portsmouth, where we were greeted by Providence, our “boat boy” and guide. We toured up the Indian River, rowing quietly through a dense jungle-lined waterway. Scenes from Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest were filmed here, including the famous “Witch’s House.” We finished with a swim in a cool freshwater mountain river—though sadly, no parrots made an appearance.

The next day included snorkeling vibrant local reefs and conserving energy for the Sunday cruiser BBQ. For $22, you get unlimited chicken and grilled tuna plus endless rum punch. After dinner, the DJ spun island hits before shifting to classic ’70s and ’80s favorites. The dance floor was packed with new friends we’d made that evening. Unfortunately, Carnival kicked off at 5 a.m. the next morning. Just as we were recovering from one too many rum punches, the music began blasting again and the locals started celebrating all over town.

Next stop: Guadeloupe—the last French island of the journey.